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gustus elementa per omnia quaerunt

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Celeriac and Brussel Sprout Risotto with Lamb and a Salmon Mousse starter.

lamb and risotto


This is post number 502. This would make number 500, me eating a frozen dinner. How auspicious, ah well. Doesn't time fly.

Dinner for six on the Sunday was going to be a lasagne, being inspired by an emailed recipe from the Flute (been on the telly ya know). Not to be, I saw myself messing about with a pasta maker and settled for the thirty or so minutes of careful stirring of a risotto. It's still seasonal for root vegetables and I've been impressed with celeriac of late, Brussel sprouts are also out and they were chosen for: I was shown how to remove and cook the leaves; they add a bit of colour; people don't like them so I could set myself up for one of those magic "don't usually like "X" but" moments and so huzzah!

Salmon Mousse:
Entree was a salmon mousse which I was happy with as it requires no gelatine, just whipping up some cream and then refrigeration.

1 salmon cutlet - the u-shaped one, fried or grilled until cooked. Let it cool and flake it apart, removing bones and skin. Add 4tbs of EVOO, juice of one lemon (actually have a bit of a taste on this and add as necessary, I may have overdone it a smidgen); a bit of rind scraping; a shake of chilli powder; and a dozen capers. Puree.

Take 300ml of chilled cream and before it sits out too long, whip it . Whip it good, until firm and then carefully fold in the salmon. At this stage I put it into 6 dariole molds but you don't have to. I did it because I've just bought them. In reality they didn't come out very cleanly so you could just make quenelle shapes with a couple of spoons. Or pop them in glasses maybe. Or serve them on a spoon. Or get yourself a fish mold. Anyway put it in the fridge for at least two hours. The flavours will mingle over time.

It was a bit lemony so I thought a tomato and basil sauce would be nice. Skin (hold the tomato over a flame) and deseed (scrape out) two tomatoes. Puree with a handful of basil and enough EVOO. To get it nice and runny. If you're going to pour it in a piping bag, be sure to close the other end and ensure that end isn't near an opened drawer.

Good good good. Creamy, fishy, tarty, and sweet.

Celeriac and Brussel Sprout Risotto with Lamb
Make some chicken stock - it'll be better than anything you can buy. Go on make some. This weekend. It'll take you 30 minutes of messing around, tops. Then you can freeze it. The kitchen will smell nice. Here's a recipe, you might want to chuck a bit of white wine in there too. Free range chicken wings are a cheap way of adding more meatiness to the bones as well. You can use the celeriac stems instead of celery as an aromatic. They are a bit stronger so do lessen the amount accordingly.

Cooking: 1 cup of finely chopped leek, eschallot, and onion. Sautee in EVOO until soft, add 500gm of aborio rice and stir until it's starts to go a little golden. Pour in a glass of white wine, and stir until absorbed, add another glass of white wine and stir until absored, add a glass of red wine and stir until absorbed, and then move on to the stock a cup at a time until the rice is cooked. It should still have a little bit of bite. This slow process coats the rice and makes it creamy.

Additions: Chop the ends off a dozen brussel sprouts and remove the leave. The outermost leaves are the bitterest so you can get rid of them, and you can toss the white bits too. Soften a little in a frypan with some oil. Reserve some of the leaves for garnish.

Peel one celeriac and chop into small cubes. Parboil then roast until soft. Mash a little. You want some mashy bits and some pieces.

Add these in about 5-10 minutes before the risotto is ready.

Lamb:
The lamb chops were in a rack and it's lovely way of doing them. There's a really nice feeling as you slice through it when it's done. Shame mine weren't as pink as I like them but, well, guests. Simply done. Marinated in some chopped rosemary, red wine, EVOO, and garlic and roasted on a couple of rounds of leek. Rest for 10 minutes before cutting.

Stir a large dab of butter through the risotto, top with a chop, garnish with some brussel sprout leaves and serve.

Very nice. I had wanted to add walnuts but celeriac already had that nutty taste so not necessary.

That's it. Just make sure if you're jeans a bit low, to bend at the knees when reaching down for the warming tray in the oven.

fini


And: hello and welcome to the good people of Sadly, No!

Also - how does it feel? A waffly defence of this dish in the moral realm to prove why I don't write about these issues much - Veganism and civilisation

27 Comments:

Blogger akatsukira said...

Re: low-rise jeans. On the other hand (cheek?), failing to bend at the knees in front of guests will ensure you have the entire rack of pink lamb to yourself...

And re: bitter brussel sprout outer leaves. I'd never realised that. I pull them off cos they're usually riddled with bug-eaten holes, which tends to put off guests not used to our "organic" (read:lazy) way of gardening.

9/29/2005 03:14:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Bramble

Yeah a bit of the ATM going on there. The plan is to have a cooking show "The Crack Chef" and the appeal is there may be an alluring bit of bum cleavage when I drop things.

That's the word on the street. Top points for growing your own ones.

9/29/2005 10:05:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Mum's also tended to overcook them a tad too, leaving them bitter and mushy.

Salmon mousse was pretty nive, somebody with better plate deco skills than me could do a nice job with it. Recipe came mainly from an old italian cookbook.

9/29/2005 09:02:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

A fierce regimen of diet and exercise Ted.

You're very right on the mousse, and I've realised I've left out the dozen capers I put in with the salmon.

It's good clear standard recipe, I'll have t give the fenugreek a go.

10/01/2005 09:40:00 am

 
Blogger Reid said...

Hi Anthony,

The salmon mousse sounds great. Thanks for sharing. When I cook salmon at home, it's usually poached in vermouth.

Brussel sprouts...love 'em, but have eaten 'em in a while. They usually come in pint sized containers and it's a bit too much for me to eat by myself.

Don't worry, not a word on the bum cleavage. *shhhh*

10/01/2005 06:58:00 pm

 
Blogger akatsukira said...

ATM?

As for the cooking show, you could pair up with a cack cook. (Along the lines of "Can't cook; won't cook"...)

And your defence of carnivorism wasn't half bad. For me, it's all about responsible "consumerism". Leaving the meat out of my diet would make me a miserable git, but I can make the effort to avoid factory-farmed sources. It's true that free range is no guarantee of cruelty-free treatment; it's all down to a country's regulations. For example, I wouldn't trust any labelling here as far as I can throw it. In the UK, on the other hand, i'm pretty sure the RSPCA gets involved in monitoring farms that claim to produce free-range eggs or meat.

10/02/2005 03:38:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Reid

Vermouth sounds like a great idea but I poached myself in it one night when I was 17 and haven't been able to look at it since.

A pint of brussel sprouts is quite a bit I'll have to admit. And yes the plumber's butt indeed.

Bramble
Automated Teller Machine. I would need a partner that could say things like, "could you get those plates out of the bottom drawer and stuff"

Just popped back there to see how I was doing and the last message seems to suggest that I'm not getting the last word on free-range la la la la not what this post is about, anybody else like to say something? Which actually has me a bit pissy. I know of producer down South that's trying to get an organic free range chicken farm going and is having trouble finding and abbortoir that'll kill them they way they want and just saying free-range is bullshit blah blah blah is wrong and knocking back an opportunity to actually do something about animal welfare. Knocking bullshit free-range (and it exists) is fine and it does have to be monitored but a blanket slur does nothing and if this keeps getting repeated there are two possibilities
a) being told free range is rubbish, people decide that the only alternative is veganism.
b) being told free-range is rubbish, people decide not to spend the bit extra on and buy factory farmed products.
Which is more likely? Jeebus, I grew up on a free range sheep farm. Gah! Where's a crack squad of militant slow food phalangists when you need them.

10/02/2005 08:43:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm sorry if I got you pissed anthony. My rant was about the actual free range term in itself, and how it is used by most big manufacturers. I know it may have come across as more of a rant against everyone working under the term free range but that's not what I intended. I'll write more carefully next time.

I completely understand that some people are putting in a lot effort under the banner of free range which I think is fantastic, and I take nothing away from them.

Great work on the latest recipe by the way ;0)

10/04/2005 01:49:00 am

 
Blogger akatsukira said...

>Jeebus, I grew up on a free range sheep farm.

Heh... I've yet to see a sheep farm that isn't free-range... Thankfully, it's not cost-effective ;)

10/04/2005 02:55:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Dan

S' okay, I was feeling a bit ranty but we're agreed corporates can render something like free range meaningless.

The recipe is yours, enjoy : )

Bramble
Ha! yes indeed.

10/04/2005 07:06:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

er,um,
im getin the feelin
this aint a great time
to talk bout lamb roasts!

10/04/2005 10:47:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Nah it's a perfect time, get sticking up for yourself.

10/04/2005 10:51:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Well, Woz and I were talking bout this last nite.Like he said its hard for people who have never been to a working farm to understand exactly how much work and effort a farmer puts into his sheep, cows, chicken or wateva. But i will tell you that ive never seen any one on this farm ever mistreat an animal in any way.
Infact often either Jeremy or his dad to drive a sick sheep 150ks to see vet, ive seen them bottle feed baby lambs and when you have a flock of 3000 or so sheep, thats a lot of work.
I supose at the end of the day its each to his own, one question tho,
Wat is a flipin vegan anyway?

10/04/2005 11:12:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

A vegan is somebody who doesn't use any animla products - meat, milk, leather, eggs. There are a few reasons but at the heart of it there's a belief that there's no way that we can use animals that isn't exploitative (or will inevitably lead to exploitation). I differ on this point in that, like you say, it is possible to treat animals fairly and still eat them etc.

I don't think we can assume that farmer's won't mistreat animals but the good one's don't. I was pretty surprised my dad thought mulesing was wrong and a change has to be found (don't tell anyone I told ya).

Actually I get more pissed off with meat eaters saying yuk when I say I've killed animals than vegetarians.

10/04/2005 01:43:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

great leaping lizards,
wat can they eat, cause theres not much left to choose from.There must be some fairly thin vegan people walking round out there.
MUELSING
ahh touchy subject.
I will tell you a story,
Being a funky city chick, and moving to the land that God forgot wasnt easy.One day the boys had to do some muelsing and i was absolutley horrified, i kicked up such a fuss that Wozza took me in the ute to our neighbours paddock and showed me this poor fly struck lamb, it had basically been eaten alive by maggots and was dying.I cried all the way home . Yes we need to find a better way to stop sheep getting fly struck, but i would rather ANYDAY see a sheep with a red ass for a week or so, than ever see a sheep being eaten alive by maggots.
(and one more thing, the blowflies up here are as big as the mighty nissan)
sorry if ive bored you, had to get that off me chest

10/04/2005 02:27:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Lots of beans and my vegan friend was pretty lean.

"Muelsing" sorry.Yeah flystrike is the worst, slow and painful and its not like anybody enjoys muelsing either. It's a varietal and breeding problem. Will have to chat about my genetic solution one day.

10/04/2005 10:50:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

woz and i thought perhaps we could talk genetics over lunch at Lamonts followed by beer at ferrals?
and maybe a game of paintballing, or golf?

10/05/2005 11:31:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

I may be able to get you a table at Georgeff's of Floreat

10/05/2005 05:21:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

um,
we ment a few of us,
im so embarressed,
im going to hide in the cave ,
in the back paddock...

10/05/2005 06:13:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Eh?

What you mean you Woz and all your sisters?

10/05/2005 06:20:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

no,
oh, shame....
how embarresement;
this is just gettin worse,
please just forget bout booking
any table for woz and me, we wont be seen in public for bout a year..

10/05/2005 06:46:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

oooh
now i get it your georgeff of floreat, cool yes , we would Love to have lunch at your place.
i will bring my guitar!

10/05/2005 09:30:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

and we will rock on!

Can you play Barracuda?

10/05/2005 11:06:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

nope,
i cant play anything,yet

but i will bring it so you can play it.that would be cool.

10/06/2005 07:41:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

So that makes two of us, one more and I think we'll have the worst mariachi band in the world.

10/06/2005 11:03:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey Wozza said that he looks great in a hula skirt and he could play the tambourine, all we need now is for Toni to play the recorder and prehaps wear a long orange flowing dress .
who shall we get to sing?

10/06/2005 12:29:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Me

10/18/2005 09:12:00 pm

 

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