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gustus elementa per omnia quaerunt

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

Waldorfy Caeserish Salad with an Anchovy Mayonnaise Dressing

kinda waldorfy caeserish salad

I don't make a lot of salads, so it's no surprise that I've kind of made several different salads in one. If it looks a bit busy, you're right. All it needs is olives, avocado, and some rice. There are, however a few good tricks in there that can be applied generally.

Anchovy Mayonnaise:
If you've been paying attention, you should be able to make your own pasta, bone a chicken, dismember a rabbit, and make your own stock. Now I think you should make your own mayonnaise too. First reason is it takes about five minutes and second reason is that commercially available mayonnaise is sugary jellied crap. Plus if you're making it yourself, you can mess around with different stuff.

The basics are an egg yolk, no more than one cup of oil per yolk, a teaspoon of mustard (helps emulsify), and salt and pepper. Try to have them at room temperature. For this one I used all of the above but the oil was a mix of 1/4 cup each of walnut oil, EVOO, and vegetable oil. Whisk the other ingredients together and then add the oil drop by drop, whisking continously. Build up to a thin slow stream but take a break before your arm drops off . Once it's all blended in, whisk in a couple of teaspoons of hot water to thin and stabilise it. Season to flavour.

To this I added a teaspoon of anchovies, finely chopped and then smeared to a paste with the flat of my chef's knife and whisked in.

Asparagus:
Cut off the tougher end - around the bottom fifth. These ones were quite thick so peel the bottom two thirds, slice in half down the middle, and then half again, and cook in butter. Keep warm.

Walnuts:
Roast in the oven (or in a pan). Keep warm.

Radicchio and Rocket:
Wash and drain and dry if need be. Those salad spinners are great but I don't have one.

Croutons:
Chop bread into cubes and dry in a hot oven. Fry a couple of cloves of crushed garlic in olive oil and then toss the cubes in them. Keep warm.

Apple:
Core and then thinly slice. Squeeze a little lemon juice over them to prevent discolouration.

Goat's Cheese:
Local stuff - Kytren. Very nice, you only need a little bit for that sour cheesy taste. Crumble over the top. I almost left it off for being a it gimmicky but no harm done.

Prep and Eating:
Mix the leaves, croutons and apples together with the mayonnaise. Then top with the walnuts, asparagus, and goat's cheese and the flick a little of the mayonnaise over the top.

Great, it was a meal in itself and if it wasn't the most harmonious of mixes, everything was well represented. Nice as leftovers with some bald-chin groper cooked in butter too.

And: Got my chef's knife sharpened at Cut it Out on Murray Street (another bit of Jackson's advice along with the mayonnaise and the smearing bit to make a paste). Well recommended, I had no idea my knife could be that sharp. Too scared to use it now, might slice the bench in half.

28 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very interesting dish. I think we can use a wire whisk for this lesson, Anthony ?

11/09/2005 01:49:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yup. Goat's cheese, walnuts, asparagus + croutons = good.

11/09/2005 03:45:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Shite, all this time I have subliminally learning??!@#

30c today in Sydney, definitely salad weather. My dinner salad might have some kangaroo and a yoghurtmoroccanlemonythingysauce.

11/09/2005 05:54:00 am

 
Blogger 2-minute Noodle Cook said...

I really like the anchovy mayonnaise idea, only wish I've thought of that for Paper Chef #12! I'll have to get walnut oil or maybe macademia willl do?

11/09/2005 07:08:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Cockatoo
-you read my mind.
AG
-I read your mind.
Sue
-game of cards?

11/09/2005 07:13:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

2mNC
I read the Larousse Gastronomique.
Walnut oil is good for dressings but I'm kind of messing around with it at the moment. Macadamia could work and I hear avacado oil has a very high smoke-point.

11/09/2005 07:16:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Speaking of knives... we sharpened our good knife (yes, only one, how sad) on the weekend but it wasn't quite sharp enough. Night before last it skidded off an onion and imbedded itself in my finger. A rather long way. Blood, tears, etc.

So I reckon a trip to Cut it Out is in order.

Also, can I make mayonnaise in the food processor?

11/09/2005 07:32:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

woow,
thats a great salad.
Made a great salad only last nite.
i will share it with you.

tomatoes
luttuce
cucumber
chop all in unchokable bits
chuck in nearest bowl
throw on table


copyrite....... moni

11/09/2005 07:40:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Kate
-you only need one (and a few more but that's hardly catchy is it?). Argh ow, that's no good, hope you're OK. A steel will just maintain it. I was just reading that twice a year having it professionally sharpened will do the trick so once a year maybe for home use. I had to get a small bend taken out of the end so it cost me $12 but a regular sharpening costs about $6 and takes a day. They also used to do sharpening on site on Saturday mornings at Gib & Pat's in Osborne Park.

Mon
That's some wicked free verse poetry.

11/09/2005 07:47:00 am

 
Blogger Elizabeth said...

You forgot to mention the kitchen sink...

That salad sounds pretty good, although I don't think I'd put in the asparagus. Serve the asparagus on its own with hollandaise AFTER the salad.

Surely you're not including Hellmanns in with the rest of the "sugary jellied crap"?

(Homemade mayonnaise is delicious though! Hmmmm... frites....)

Add a little raspberry vinaigrette to your mayonnaise and make endive (or frisee), bacon, toasted goatcheese (coat it with sesame seeds) salad. It's wonderful.

11/09/2005 08:11:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Also- Kate, I'd say no for character building reasons but for just one yolk it's easier and less messy to use a whisk. I usually use a blender for aoili because I'm already using for the breadcrumbs.

EJM
-not before?
-If it's not sugary jellied crap, then no - german mayonnaise is pretty good.
-it's at worst kind of lo-fi
-sounds lovely but I'm trying to remember the Japanese expression for sesame seeds making everything tasting of sesame seeds. Help!

11/09/2005 08:47:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Countin' flowers on the wall
That don't bother me at all
Playin' solitaire till dawn with a deck of fifty-one
Smokin' cigarettes and watchin' Captain Kangaroo
Now don't tell me I've nothin' to do

11/09/2005 05:10:00 pm

 
Blogger Reid said...

Hi Anthony,

That anchovy mayo sounds like a good idea. I think it would work well with most any salad, but do you think it would be good on a baguette with brie and arugula (I think that's what rocket is)?

BTW...only Kewpie brand mayo is jelly-like and sweet! =P

11/09/2005 05:57:00 pm

 
Blogger deborah said...

oh ah. nice. a few q's for you teacher:

how do you keep nuts warm after roasting without burning them?

what kind/type of mustard do you use to emulsify?

and can i use yolks which have been sitting in the fridge (the whitesused for a meringue) after umm 3 days. they are close to being thrown out - but just wondering about their storage life. i suppose i could google, but this is better.

plus i aint paying blogger hecs for nothing!

11/09/2005 06:23:00 pm

 
Blogger Elizabeth said...

Sure, have the asparagus and hollandaise before if you want...

"lo - fi"? The only thing wrong with Hellmann's (American company as far as I know) is that it's made with soybean or canola oil rather than olive oil.

Hmmm, I know what you mean about sesmae seeds (love that there is a Japanese word for that taste) But if the goat cheese is a thickish slab, the sesame seeds do not take over. We usually get a Reblechon. If you're concerned though, just leave the sesame seeds out. But don't forget to add a little grainy mustard to the mayonnaise.

Speaking of making your own, have you discovered the wonders of making your own mustard? You'll never go back to buying storebought again.

our mustard recipe:
http://etherwork.net/recipes/spicemix.html#mustard

11/09/2005 06:30:00 pm

 
Blogger Ed said...

I'm usually a purist but in my old age am intruiged by the merger of two salads. Glad to hear you're still on manual. Beats the gym.

11/09/2005 07:21:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Sue
You just made me think of Christpher Walken : )

Reid
Kewpie just has a sweet bottle it's pretty salty compared to the standard fare here like Praise. Yeah baguette and brie but I think this is arugula.

Saffron
Questions questions
give me no answers

-a low oven or having them done just in time or giving them a reheat with the asparagus in some butter.
-Dijon is traditional and you can use the whole seed type. I actually used german mustard. EJM may have the good word on this.
-it's a good question. You can freeze whites but yolks go yuk. I'd hazard a guess they'd still be OK after three days of refrigeration, not much longer though and the worry I'd have is that mayonnaise is raw. If in doubt, chuck it out.
Eggs keep fresh by limiting the amount of oxygen that can enter, rotten ones absorb air and that's why bad eggs float.
- I can charge HECS?

EJM
-yay!
-lo-fi as in not that slick but kind of engaging in an interesting way.
-if it's good it's good, but Hellboy was a crappy movie.
-maybe the word would be gomaaji gomanoaji. Gomasuri is sesame seed grinding and has the same meaning as apple polisher.
I think there was a bit of overdoing it with tuna and sesame seed but grainy mustard yes.

-that's funny I was thinking about that as I was looking at half a bottle of red and making my own vinegar and seeing if I could go a whole month just eating all my own stuff. Hmmmm. I'll pop over and have a look.

11/09/2005 07:29:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Oh hi Ed you snuck in there.

The waldorf pretends to have killed itself with poison until the caeser comes in and discovering the waldorf dead, takes it's own life.

I've got crappy caveman technique like I'm stirring a bit pot of porridge. I need a bitb more finesse and you've just reminded me of an early letter to Viz which went:

Dear Sir
Many people have commented that the Cindy Crawford exercise video is rubbish. This is quite wrong. Since purchasing the video I now have a right arm like Arnold Schwarzenegger.


Sorry people, but it is kinda funny.

11/09/2005 07:49:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've got to agree with you, Cockatoo. Anthony, beating egg whites or egg yolks with a wire whisk is no problem. I know from experience that a swift wrist action can make almost anything stand up stiffly...

11/10/2005 01:11:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

fnar!a

11/10/2005 07:30:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

For a chef at work.

I can see the sweat on his forehead,
The ember's glow over his stubble blue.

I can feel the rising
from the forests of his arms' hairs,
The hissing snake under my loving touch.

The warm soil in his shoulder fields,
Rippling valleys across and down,
upon where my face rests now.

11/10/2005 11:17:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Cockatoo

That's extremely lovely. Sadly me cheffing at work tonight was:

Your hat is on sideways
Hey thanks, I like my sideburns too
No your hat is on sideways
Oh

11/11/2005 12:12:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I missed one word out. Here's my full silly poem for you and all talented chefs out there:

For a chef at work

I can see the sweat on his forehead,
The ember's glow over his stubble blue.

I can feel the heat rising
From the forests of his arms' hairs,
The hissing snake under my loving touch.

The warm soil in his shoulder fields,
Rippling valleys across and down,
Upon where my face rests now.

11/11/2005 02:35:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Bret
Woah you got ilnodud, I've got ntfcyih - which is crap. Homo-made mayonnaise does lack the adorable mascot it's true.

Send me the deatils and maybe I can ask around.

11/12/2005 08:29:00 am

 
Blogger Elizabeth said...

tuna and sesame seed?? bzdan

11/13/2005 09:46:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Yep, just at a restaurant, I think the cook was a bit reluctant to leave good alone.

11/14/2005 01:03:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

fock.

never thought a SALAD could look so dark and...sexy.

LOL!

beautiful.

11/30/2005 02:01:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Thank you Sarah

I've never thought of salad as particularly sexy before but now you mention it, it is kinda hot.

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to take a shower.

11/30/2005 03:13:00 pm

 

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