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gustus elementa per omnia quaerunt

Sunday, August 21, 2005

Scrambled eggs and a couple of things of significance

scrambled eggs

The reward of being interested in cooking is not so much in doing the ambitious things as it is in doing simple things better. Omlettes are are vexatious candidate for this, seemingly impossible to get just right. Scrambled eggs however.

Use free range eggs. If we're going to harness sentient creatures to our own benefits we may as well pass a bit of humanity their way. If this sounds like animal rights by noblesse oblige, well yes it is. Crack half a dozen of them, pick some chervil and flat leafed parsley from the garden, a gentle whisk, not quite smoothing over the distinctions between yolk and white and let it sit for half an hour; adding a splash of milk and a sprinkle of pepper.

Heat a heavy fry pan and then switch to a very low heat. A heavy pan will distribute the heat evenly. Another slower alternative is to use or make a bouble boiler. Melt some butter in the pan. Add the eggs and keep scraping the base of the pan with a spatula, regularly turning and flipping. The goal is to have little grains of doneness in an otherwise cream like consitency. Don't be afraid to just turn the heat off and let it coast. It should pour.

As a side boil some spinach for a minute and then strain. Cook up some sliced ham in butter and add the spinach to it with the pepper.

Very softly cooked scarmbeld eggs are marvellous and travel well in the mouth. Creamy, warmy, tasty. The only chew should come from the accompanying bread. The spinach is there for the colour and the iron.

[insert segue later]

A couple of things of import for Cmdr. Peter Quincy Taggart. One. I'll be writing for and setting up a website with a new food mag coming out in Perth called Spice. Familiar yes. Entirely coincidental, although I like to imagine a kind of localised Rupert Sheldrake vibe slowly seeping out. It will be good. People starting it up are sharp, earnest, and dedicated. Opposites attract. Two. Thanks to Crafty and Chris I get to have a go working in the kitchen at Jackson's Restaurant this Thursday. It's a brilliant restaurant, best in Perth, I'm not worthy of removing the peel from their potatoes.

Go play your hand, you big talking man,

12 Comments:

Blogger deborah said...

I could also see this served in a small'ish ramekin, and the bread used as dipping materical. Nice addition of spinach.

Hooray for your new projects! I assume the name of the publication will be revealed soon...

8/22/2005 06:02:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

One of my childhood cooking adventures was with scrambled eggs in a hollowed out bun. The spinach is there because I can no longer relate to eggs without irony.

Argggh gastric reflux and sweaty palms for new projects. The name of the publication will be Spice but I don't know how much more I can say, perhaps I've blabbed too much, wait what are you doing? no

8/22/2005 09:18:00 am

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

scrambled eggs are so easily ruined and so up to personal preference.

I love the way my mum cooks it with a pinch or two of sugar so it caramelises just so. And it has to be creamy and not too broken up.

8/22/2005 01:06:00 pm

 
Blogger FXH said...

help. I need pointing at a good kangaroo recipe. just a few little bits not a whole one.

8/22/2005 01:20:00 pm

 
Blogger deborah said...

Hngh. I did not pay attention. Ofcourse you mentioned it before. And now I am going to wait until you write something and add a link :)

8/22/2005 01:39:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

FX
I'll habve a better look around but this just sung to me:
"Always cut across the grain and ensure your steak is at least a finger width deep. Heat some olive oil until hot in a wide base pan, and in the meantime sprinkle the steaks liberally with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (both sides).

Take the steaks and place in the pan - remember the golden rule for low fat meats is NOT to overcook them. Sear each side and then turn down the heat and cook evenly each side until the meat feels slightly firm to pressure in the centre. If preferred, check by making a small incision in the centre of the steak - no fat will be lost of course - and serve nice and pink if possible. (Rare is just fine!!).... on a bed of mixed rocket and watercress leaves ... mmmm! If you like a little more sophistication, deglaze the pan with a little red wine and some sliced button mushrooms, and pour the sauce over the steaks prior to serving."


Sue
Sugar, that's a new one. I guess Japanese tamagoyaki usually adds a bit of sweetness through Mirin.

Agreed on the different prefences but it's a shame the default is set somwhere between hard and dry.

8/22/2005 01:40:00 pm

 
Blogger 2-minute Noodle Cook said...

Good Aussie kangaroo recipes can be found at Kangaroo Association. Any takers for kangaroo rendang or bolognese.... :)

8/22/2005 10:09:00 pm

 
Blogger Anthony said...

Thanks 2mc, few dishes sound more like a motorbike being kicked over than rendang

Saffy
When I know, you'll be the first to know.

8/22/2005 10:34:00 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

AAh it was all Chris' doing! I'm so excited and can't wait to hear about it.

8/23/2005 08:03:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

He's a good 'un. Trepidation levels rising.

8/23/2005 09:15:00 am

 
Blogger Joycelyn said...

hi anthony, congratulations on the new gigs - will spice be winging its way beyond australia? can't wait to check out your printed word! already know it'll be awesome ;) cheers,j

8/25/2005 03:26:00 am

 
Blogger Anthony said...

: )
Hey thanks J. You're much to kind. I'll have to check about foreign subscriptions but regardless, I'm sure I could get one your way.

Wish me luck in the kitchen tonight, just about getting to biting my nails.

8/25/2005 07:20:00 am

 

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